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Food & Drink

Alfie's is finally home, and Georgetown got a Thai restaurant worth the decade-long wait

Chef Alex McCoy's cult northern Thai pop-up returns as a permanent Georgetown wine bar, where holy basil from the Eastern Shore stands in for Bangkok imports and the menu changes three times a week.

Alfie's is finally home, and Georgetown got a Thai restaurant worth the decade-long wait

The alley behind M Street and Wisconsin Avenue in Georgetown is not where you'd expect to find one of the most anticipated restaurant comebacks in DC history. There's no signage visible from the sidewalk, no velvet rope, no bold-faced name above the door. Just a narrow passage in a development called Hamilton Collective, and at the end of it, a 25-seat room that has been, by most accounts, fully booked since reservations opened.

Alfie's officially opened September 2 at 1228½ 31st Street NW, which is about as alluringly hard to find as the original was approachable. Chefs Alex McCoy and Justin Ahn, joined now by chef partner Ian Ko, are running a northern Thai kitchen out of an open line that diners can watch from their seats. McCoy and Ahn are cooking. Sometimes they run food themselves.

For anyone who ate at the first Alfie's, this moment has been a long time coming.

What it was, and why it mattered

If you were a DC foodie in 2016, you probably remember Alfie's. Though the northern Thai pop-up lasted less than a year in Park View, opening in February and shuttering over the summer, it entered the pantheon of memorable DC pop-ups. During its brief run, chefs and sommeliers from all over the city were slurping khao soi at the Alfie's bar, and the spot picked up write-ups in Vogue and Bon Appétit. Perhaps more meaningfully, the local Thai community embraced it.

When McCoy announced the reopening on Instagram, chef Kitima Boonmala of BirdSong commented, "Home." "To have chefs in the Thai community think of Alfie's like their living room is such an honor to us," McCoy says.

Between 2016 and now, Alfie's didn't disappear. McCoy and the team were operating as a small-scale popup all over the world for the past eight or so years, including in London, Bangkok, and New York City, and running dinners back in DC every few months. The brick-and-mortar was always the goal, but McCoy understood that the concept couldn't be rushed.

What's actually on the menu

The Georgetown version of Alfie's has grown up, but not away from its roots. Signature dishes like khao soi and ba mee haeng are still on the menu. What's changed is the philosophy behind the sourcing.

The permanent space gives McCoy and Ahn a chance to focus on more local, seasonal ingredients. In Thailand, a certain dish might have dozens of variations depending on what ingredients are available nearby. The menu at Alfie's will change three to four times per week, incorporating locally grown greens, foraged mushrooms, holy basil sourced from a farm on the Eastern Shore, and temperate ingredients swapped in for tropical ones, like tart sea buckthorn instead of tamarind.

McCoy is direct about the reasoning. "If it's not tamarind, it's sea buckthorn. If it's not mackerel, it's rockfish," he says. This is Thai cooking filtered through what grows in the mid-Atlantic right now, not what can be air-shipped from Bangkok. It's a harder discipline than it sounds.

The wine program is equally considered. McCoy and business partner Justin Ahn can play with fiery northern Thai flavors, hyper-local ingredients, and a playful list of Virginia and natural wines. A $50 bottle is the sweet spot McCoy imagines for a table. He wants people to come in, say hello, and forget whatever's going on outside.

The room

The new permanent Alfie's is in a fancied-up part of town, a redeveloped alley just off M Street and Wisconsin Avenue, but McCoy and Ahn are working to recreate the feel of the scrappy pop-up. "It's got a bit of that feel of a hole-in-the-wall wine bar in Europe, but it also has the feel of a shophouse in Thailand," McCoy told Washingtonian. "This wasn't a restaurant before, but we worked really hard to make this place feel like it had been here for 40 or 50 years."

At 25 seats, this is a tight room. When reservations went live, McCoy says they booked 700 and counting. That said, Alfie's is holding walk-in seats. If this was giving you Little Serow flashbacks, relax, no long lines. The bar is first-come, first-served and carries the full menu.

Why Georgetown, why now

Georgetown hasn't always been the address for this kind of cooking. The neighborhood runs toward steak, prep school, and power lunch. But the Hamilton Collective alley has quietly become something different: Flora Pizzeria opened next to Alfie's on September 14, with a natural-leavened menu from the Pluma/Bluebird Bakery team. Two focused, chef-driven rooms, tucked into a passage most Washingtonians walk past without looking.

McCoy has been candid about why this location clicked. "When the space in Georgetown became available, it was almost serendipitous. It was perfect. I find that the best restaurants happen organically. This has taken quite a lot of time, but the end result will really be the best version of Alfie's."

The Infatuation, which visited after opening, called out the signature herb-loaded sai au sausage that delivers its signature Thai chili crescendo from a small open kitchen that seems ripped straight off a food truck, alongside a wine list heavy on naturals and local vineyards.

Reservations go 60 days out on Resy. Walk-ins take the bar. Either way, bring a friend who's willing to eat whatever McCoy and Ahn pulled from the Eastern Shore that morning. The menu won't be the same one that was on last Thursday.

Sources