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Food & Drink

Chevy Chase finally gets its neighborhood restaurant

Bo Blair and chef David Scribner open Wheelhouse at 5714 Connecticut Ave. NW - part vintage yacht club, part raw bar, all Chesapeake.

Chevy Chase finally gets its neighborhood restaurant

The storefront at 5714 Connecticut Ave. NW sat dark for years. Locals walked past the former Wine & Organic Market space, past the Citibank next door, and kept moving north toward Maryland or south toward the Circle without any particular reason to stop. That changed on June 10.

Wheelhouse opened that evening, and within days the 4,500-square-foot room was doing what Bo Blair's restaurants always seem to do: fill up with people who live nearby and want to stay a while.

The man behind the concept

Blair is the founder of Georgetown Events Hospitality Group, the company behind DC and Nantucket favorites including Millie's, Jetties, Surfside, and the Bullpen. He has been chasing this particular zip code for a while. Blair told Bethesda Today the group had "always sought to open a restaurant in D.C.'s Chevy Chase neighborhood." The short version of why it took so long: the right space never materialized. Then the Wine & Organic Market closed, and Blair moved fast.

The comparison he keeps reaching for is Millie's, his coastal fare spot at 4866 Massachusetts Ave. in Spring Valley. Blair told Bethesda Today, "We wanted to kind of create something very similar to what we did with Millie's in Spring Valley in Chevy Chase. So, we finally were able to find a spot that we liked." That is not spin. Millie's is one of the more reliably packed rooms in upper Northwest, and the parallel is a concrete one: a neighborhood that skews professional and family-oriented, Connecticut Avenue as the main artery, coastal food as the common language.

The room

The new room runs 4,500 square feet, seats 211 across indoor and outdoor sections, and centers on a 33-foot bar with sailing flags strung above it. Blair was particularly proud of those flags. According to Blair, Wheelhouse has a nautical theme reminiscent of a "vintage yacht club." It's a commitment, not a gesture. The whole space reads that way - booth seating, a patio for sidewalk watching, TVs at the bar for game day.

Most sit-down rooms on this stretch of Connecticut top out around 80 to 100 seats, which makes Wheelhouse roughly twice the capacity of anything already on the block. That scale matters. The area around the eatery is a commercial strip along Connecticut Avenue home to Opal, BirdSong, Parthenon, and Little Beast - and Blair noted he was particularly excited about the restaurant being near the Avalon Theatre and being a dining option for moviegoers. Pre-film oysters and a Christopher Cross cocktail. There are worse plans.

What chef David Scribner is cooking

The yacht-clubby restaurant is charting its own course with an original New American menu from chef David Scribner. Scribner built it around the Bay. His menu centers on Maryland seafood, crudos, crispy rice sushi, crab soup, spiced shrimp, soft-shells, roasted rockfish over coconut rice, and steak frites. The dish names lean into the theme: the Topsail Caesar, The Jib, The Boom.

The raw bar offers oysters, littleneck clams, tuna poke, and ceviche, along with daily changing seafood from up and down the East Coast. That rotating element gives regulars a reason to come back mid-week, not just on Saturday nights. Blair's personal favorite on the menu is the local roasted rockfish - inspired by a recent trip to the Caribbean - topped with a lime butter sauce and served with coconut rice and peas.

Want something more landlocked? The French dip arrives as shaved prime rib with horseradish cream and plenty of au jus for dunking. It is the kind of thing that makes a 33-foot bar feel like the right place to be on a Tuesday.

The cocktail list has a sense of humor

Some cocktails nod to yacht rock artists, including the "Christopher Cross" - vodka, grapefruit, lime, and sea salt - and the "Kenny Loggins," an espresso martini. There's also an orange crush and a frozen Aperol spritz. Wheelhouse runs a weekday happy hour at the bar from 4 to 6 p.m.

Beyond dinner

There is a separate takeout counter next to the dining room serving Gifford's ice cream and a weekend brunch menu that launched June 20. Gifford's is a Maine-based creamery that also supplies Jetties. Brunch brings blueberry pancakes and warm biscuits into the mix - weekend-morning material for anyone who lives within walking distance of the Circle.

Why the name

Blair says it's a double meaning. In boating, the wheelhouse is where you steer the vessel. More broadly, it's "something that you're comfortable with and know you like." Both readings fit. This is a restaurant built by people who know exactly what they're doing - and positioned in a neighborhood that, after years of watching its best restaurant real estate sit vacant, is ready to let someone steer.

Wheelhouse is at 5714 Connecticut Ave. NW, Washington, DC. Lunch and dinner are served daily; brunch runs Saturday and Sunday. The takeout counter and ice cream window operate separately next door. Reservations at wheelhousedc.com.

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