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Food & Drink

Croix just opened a rooftop in Southwest DC, and it's built around an island most Americans have never eaten

Chef Keem Hughley and chef de cuisine Malika King take the Caribbean seriously - and specifically - atop the Cambria Hotel near Audi Field.

Croix just opened a rooftop in Southwest DC, and it's built around an island most Americans have never eaten

The question chef Keem Hughley keeps asking himself - and has been asking for a few years now - is why the Caribbean gets flattened into a single idea. Jerk chicken and rum punch. Maybe a jollof comparison debate. But not the 700-odd islands and dozens of distinct culinary traditions that actually make up the region. At Croix, his new rooftop restaurant that opened August 14 atop the Cambria Hotel Washington D.C. Navy Yard Riverfront at 69 Q Street SW, Hughley is narrowing the lens on purpose: this place centers on St. Croix, one of the US Virgin Islands, where his family has roots.

"This gives us an opportunity to highlight a little region that's not as well known as Jamaica or Trinidad," Hughley has said. "We're going to do about 20 percent authentic Crucian dishes, and then the other 80 percent we consider more like modern Caribbean - more like a blend, a mashup." That ratio is deliberate, and it's doing real work. The menu isn't a geography lecture. It's food that moves.

Hughley now runs culinary and concept design for Donohoe Hospitality Services, the group behind the Cambria. He has more than a decade of experience leading hospitality concepts across DC, founded Bronze - the city's first Afrofuturistic restaurant - and earned a 2023 James Beard Award nomination for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic. Bronze closed on H Street after less than two years. He opened Realm, a hotel rooftop bar in Shaw, with inspiration from the Indian Ocean. Croix is the next move, and in some ways the most personal one.

Southwest DC may not immediately call to mind a Caribbean island. But Malika King, Hughley, and Sonat Ozkaynak, who just took over the rooftop space of the Cambria Hotel near Audi Field, are hoping to re-create the ambiance of one island in particular: St. Croix. Their polished rooftop restaurant opened on Friday, August 14, with a wide-ranging Caribbean menu, a long tropical cocktail list, and commanding views of downtown.

Three spaces, one rooftop

Caribbean restaurant Croix, its adjoining Botanic Bar, and the open-air Croix Veranda all sit atop the Cambria Hotel near Navy Yard. The setup is worth understanding before you go, because each space runs on a different frequency. A chic indoor lounge with sun-soaked outdoor seating and open-air bars anchors the main room, while the Croix Veranda is built for nights with programming that doesn't slow down.

The location matters more than it might seem on a map. The rooftop sits in Buzzard Point, where the Anacostia and Potomac Rivers converge and the skyline stretches from the Frederick Douglass Bridge to the Capitol dome. On a clear evening, the view earns its own attention. The area has added apartments and restaurants in recent years, but there aren't many rooftop destinations nearby - making Croix a prime sunset drink destination. That's not nothing in a city where good rooftop real estate is contested.

What's actually on the plate

Chef de cuisine Malika King runs the kitchen day to day. King previously worked at RowHouse, the Cambria's lobby-level restaurant, and Sonat Ozkaynak serves as corporate director of food and beverage operations. King is from Brooklyn and has Jamaican and Trinidadian heritage.

Crucian cuisine centers on signature local dishes like fungi - a cornmeal dumpling - and callaloo soup. Hughley and King make their own version of callaloo with leafy greens and a cornmeal fungi ball with pimento-soaked coconut oil. That dish is the thread back to something specific. The rest of the menu fans outward from there.

Dishes span the broader Caribbean - breadfruit gnocchi, saltfish mille-feuille with cod brandade, sea bass escovitch, and casabes, those thin crunchy yuca discs topped with goat pepperpot or jerk chicken. There's even a pizza topped with roasted calabaza and pepper jelly. Early test-run favorites include conch ceviche arepa, spiced lamb ribs, and rum-soaked black cake. Hughley's own pick from the opening menu is the casabes - the cassava discs that swap in where you'd otherwise reach for a taco shell. That specific detail says something about the whole approach: familiar format, unfamiliar ingredient, genuinely good result.

The Botanic Bar is the real flex

The cocktail program could easily be an afterthought at a concept this food-forward. It's not. The Botanic Bar is anchored by a backlit infusion wall displaying 10 Caribbean botanicals - tonka bean, sorrel, soursop leaf, and guavaberry among them - which are infused in-house for cocktails, nonalcoholic drinks, syrups, tinctures, and dishes. The wall is also, frankly, a design statement. The bar features rum-forward cocktails and frozen drinks alongside the house botanical infusions.

Infusing guavaberry in-house is not a small ask. Guavaberry - a USVI fruit with a spiced, slightly wine-like flavor - is barely known outside the islands. That it shows up in a cocktail program in Southwest DC, made fresh, tells you how far Hughley and his team are willing to go to keep this thing honest.

The bigger picture

What Croix is trying to do - take one specific, underrepresented culinary geography and give it a real stage - is harder than it sounds in a market that tends to reward familiarity. Hughley learned something at Bronze, which was brilliant and did not survive. Realm ran a similar play with Seychelles and found its footing. Croix has a bigger canvas, a more accessible cuisine, and a neighborhood - Buzzard Point, Navy Yard, Audi Field - that draws crowds already. Hughley, a graduate of McKinley Tech High School, has built his career around pushing the boundaries of cuisine through an Afrofuturistic lens. St. Croix is personal. The food reflects that.

Walk in for the callaloo and casabes. Stay for the guavaberry sour and whatever's happening on that veranda after dark.

Croix is open now atop the Cambria Hotel Washington D.C. Navy Yard Riverfront, 69 Q Street SW. Reservations and more at croixrooftop.com.

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