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Food & Drink

Lonie Murdock brings her grandmother's jerk recipe to downtown DC, and the city's rum scene will never be the same

Toronto chef Lonie Murdock just opened Isla at Midtown Center, an 8,000-square-foot fine-dining room drawing on island flavors from Jamaica to Japan, with a rum collection gunning to be the largest in the DC area.

Lonie Murdock brings her grandmother's jerk recipe to downtown DC, and the city's rum scene will never be the same

The dining room stops you before you even sit down. Isla is 8,000 square feet of warm jewel tones, high-gloss walnut, and velvet, with a custom blush-pink chandelier that cascades 10 feet over the main dining room. On the walls hang two large mosaic works from DC artist Charles Philippe Jean-Pierre. Dubbed "Mermaid I & II (Sirena I & II)," the mosaics were made from hundreds of hand-cut monotype fragments, inspired by the notion of mermaids as both muse and memory. None of it shouts. All of it lands.

Isla opened at Midtown Center on October 29, followed by sibling cocktail lounge Goodlove on November 7. Both sit at 1100 15th Street NW, a building that already houses Grazie Nonna and Shōtō. The opening marks the first US expansion of Toronto-based WeShall Hospitality.

Executive chef and restaurateur Lonie Murdock is part of why the conversation around Caribbean cuisine in fine dining is finally changing. She grew up between her Jamaican mother's kitchen and her Canadian father's table, learning early that food was the one place her two cultures actually met. Before DC, Murdock and her husband Darren Hinds built We Shall Hospitality and its beloved Miss Likklemore's, a Caribbean-inspired restaurant that started as a pop-up in 2020 before finding a permanent home in Toronto. Their portfolio also includes The Good Son and Maxime's.

In Washington, the pair teamed up with frequent partner and veteran restaurateur Hanif Harji, already established in Washington with Casamara and Reynold's bar. What drew them here specifically? Murdock put it plainly: "On our trips to Washington, we quickly fell in love with the city's diverse food scene and the energy of its nightlife. We felt an organic connection to the community here and saw an opportunity to share our own perspective while becoming part of a culinary culture that's always evolving."

What's on the plate

Isla's small plate-centric menu draws island flavors from Japan, the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, and beyond. The kitchen runs on a wood-fired open grill, and the menu's logic follows from there: char, brightness, acid, warmth. Think less "fusion" and more a chef cooking every place she has ever eaten.

One of Murdock's stated favorites is a snapper crudo with passionfruit ponzu, culantro oil, which she describes as "the tropical sister of cilantro", and fried wakame seaweed. Another dish: lamb tartare with green seasoning, an herby staple throughout the Caribbean, plus sweet potato crema, pickled pearl onions, and chives. The patties menu at the bar runs from wagyu oxtail at $19 to mushroom at $16, with crab for $19. Roasted pumpkin gnocchi channels the Caribbean with a smoked jerk beef ragu and coconut ricotta cream, and Murdock uses her grandmother's jerk recipe throughout the menu, including for a jus that reduces into a glossy sauce for the charbroiled chicken.

That grandmother detail matters to Murdock. A lot. "Here's this lady that would never have imagined that her recipe would be used in such a way," Murdock has said, "but I think it's so special to see that Black and Brown food can be presented on a global level and on the same stage as many others."

The rum room

DC has a strong cocktail bar culture, but rum has historically been an afterthought in it. Isla wants to fix that. The restaurant's Rum Room is intended to grow over time into an extensive collection of obscure rums from around the world, handpicked on travels yet to come. The program launched with around 50 selections. Clarified rum punch is among the rum-centric cocktails, and the cocktail menu focuses heavily on rum, with drinks such as the "Overproof Papi," a clarified milk punch rum and Coke. Goodlove next door runs two parallel cocktail menus, one of classics and one of "Goodlove Remixes." A classic Dirty Martini uses vodka, dry vermouth, and olive brine; its Remix counterpart swaps in sake, tomato brine, and a spice tincture.

The room next door

Hinds takes the reins at the 2,200-square-foot Goodlove, which is a destination all its own, with hints of glamour and, above all, a focus on music spanning rock to house to R&B, with DJs spinning nightly. Design firm Solid Design Creative gave the space a maximalist, theatrical look: a boldly patterned carpet, jaguar table lamps, fringed accents, and a subtle glow from seven custom chandeliers. It's familiar territory for Hinds, who owns a number of nightclubs in Toronto. Murdock says the goal is to "give a little bit more freedom to the DJs to just play for the crowd and play good music, not necessarily sticking to a particular genre, just really creating the vibe in the room."

Goodlove is open Wednesday through Saturday, 4 pm to late, with happy hour from 4 to 6 pm nightly.

The design, from the inside out

Murdock was hands-on with every inch of Isla's build-out. The restaurant covers more than 8,000 square feet, and Murdock was involved in every decision during its creation, from the copper trim on the tables to the piping on the bar stools to the color of the ceiling, working alongside design firm Solid Design Creative. The room is cast in a spectrum of warm hues, from rich burgundy red to whisper pink, with walnut paneling, velvet and leather upholstery, and custom art, and the high-lacquer bar catches the light throughout. For private events, Isla has a semi-private perch with views of the full dining room, and a larger space with its own private bar, private entrance, and room for up to 80 guests.

Murdock told Essence she wanted the room to do something to you before you even sat down. "None of those things are loud on their own," she said. "But together they create a feeling. It's the little things, the ones you cannot quite name, that make a place feel special."

Getting there

Isla is at 1100 15th Street NW, Washington, DC 20005, phone (202) 733-4800. Hours are Monday through Wednesday, 4 to 10 pm; Thursday through Saturday, 4 to 11 pm; closed Sunday. The price point runs $100 and up per person. Reservations are on OpenTable. Goodlove is steps away at the same address.

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