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Food & Drink

Maison Bar à Vins is Adams Morgan's best argument for staying out past midnight

The Popal Group - the family behind Lutèce and Pascual - turned a century-old rowhouse into a French wine bar that Washington has been quietly craving for years.

Maison Bar à Vins is Adams Morgan's best argument for staying out past midnight

There is a problem, well known to anyone who has tried to walk into Lutèce on a Thursday evening without a reservation: the place has six bar seats. Six. Georgetown's beloved neo-bistro is so small and so sought-after that co-owner Omar Popal says people complain about it constantly. "You can't just come in and be like, 'Can I get a drink?'" says Popal, whose family also runs the beloved Afghan restaurant Lapis and the Mexican destination Pascual. That complaint, repeated enough times, became a blueprint.

The answer is Maison Bar à Vins, at 1834 Columbia Road NW in Adams Morgan, and it opened September 13. The bar is the latest offering from the Popal Group, the family-run D.C. operation behind Lapis, Lutèce, and Pascual. It is not a smaller, scrappier version of those restaurants. It is something different in intention and in feel - a place built, explicitly, for the kind of night that has no fixed endpoint.

The building has a life of its own

The name Maison means 'home,' and the century-old building was originally a residence, complete with five working fireplaces. Most recently it was Habana Village, a Cuban nightclub that held court on Columbia Road for decades. The Popal Group completely revamped the interior, but the curving central green marble bartop and arching mirrored backbar were salvaged from the original tenant. That decision - keep the bar, lose the nightclub - tells you something about the group's instincts. The bones of the old place are still visible if you look. The new room just fits them better.

The space underwent a two-and-a-half-year renovation that restored the building's Victorian bones, and the first floor still unfolds like a parlor-level home, anchored by a 12-seat bar with art deco lighting and stools that feel lifted from Weimar Berlin. A green velvet curtain in the back hides a small dining room with zebra-print carpet for reservations. The effect is layered without being fussy. It reads like someone's home - a home you'd very much like to be invited to.

That is entirely deliberate. Owner Omar Popal describes Maison Bar à Vins as if you're walking into a dinner party at somebody's home. He also has a specific precedent in mind. Popal wants to conjure the same vibe as the basement parties he used to throw in the Champagne room of long-gone Napoleon in Adams Morgan. "The Napoleon parties in the basement are notorious," Popal says. "People were coming into our space to poach the DJs that I had." Later in 2026, a private events space will open on the third floor. The second floor is being readied for live music.

The kitchen is not an afterthought

Wine bars in Washington have a tendency to treat food as ballast - something to soak up the Beaujolais. Maison does not do this. Executive Chef and Partner Matt Conroy, a 2025 James Beard Best Chef Mid-Atlantic semifinalist, co-created the menu alongside Chef de Cuisine Jason Chavenson. Chavenson came up at Reverie, the Michelin-starred Georgetown restaurant that closed in October 2025, and his cooking reflects that precision.

Conroy and Chavenson have designed a menu with a few large plates and a range of small plates and snacks designed to be enjoyed with wine. The culinary program features plates like eel croquettes, brioche-stuffed chicken, and in-house made pastas that go beyond your standard bites at typical American wine bars. The smoked eel croquettes in particular have become a calling card. They are exceptionally creamy and topped with a thin sliver of singed eel. For something more substantial, the brioche-stuffed chicken is theoretically big enough to share, but the crunchy brioche and buttery chanterelle mushrooms could turn the most communal-minded diner into a food hoarder.

Late night, the kitchen leans looser. The kitchen stays open until 2 a.m. on weekends, serving belly-padding plates like bone marrow and crispy chicken cordon bleu sandwiches. That is not an accident. The late-night ambition is baked into the concept from the start - this is what Adams Morgan used to do, before the neighborhood gentrified its way into earlier bedtimes.

The wine list is actually worth reading

Advanced Sommelier Chris Ray leads the wine program alongside Beverage Director Suzy Critchlow. Critchlow is not new to ambitious pours. She most recently designed the beverage program at award-winning Pascual, and managed D.C.'s former Columbia Room, which was known for having one of the most ambitious cocktail programs of its time.

The list runs over a thousand vintages long, with a strong emphasis on biodynamic wines, and there is also an excellent by-the-glass selection. The cocktails all feature a wine-based ingredient or an ingredient made by a winemaker, plus curated picks of cognacs, armagnacs, and calvados alongside French single malts and gins. The signature 'Put the Wine in the Coconut' is a rum-and-muscat daiquiri with powdered fig leaf. The Maison Martini, shaken with melted butter and gin, is served alongside a tiny silver bowl of ice.

Why this matters right now

Maison is not Lutèce with more seats. The two restaurants share a kitchen philosophy and a wine sensibility, but they are after different things. Maison is created as a more relaxed, spontaneous counterpart to its reservation-only sibling, built for walk-ins, conversation, and nights that unfold without a plan. In a city where 'casual' often means 'perfunctory,' that distinction is worth paying attention to.

The industry has noticed. Maison Bar à Vins earned a 2026 James Beard Award finalist nomination for Best New Restaurant, putting it on a short national list alongside projects with far larger budgets and PR operations. If the first few weeks were any indication, Maison may be a long-awaited answer to the District's desire for high-quality, low-fuss wine bars.

Maison Bar à Vins is at 1834 Columbia Road NW, Adams Morgan. Hours: Wednesday and Thursday, 5 p.m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Walk-ins welcome at the bar; reservations available for the back dining room.

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