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Food & Drink

Lonie Murdock came from Toronto to give downtown DC a jerk recipe that's been in her family for generations

The chef behind Miss Likklemore's just opened Isla at Midtown Center, where a live-fire kitchen, a serious rum room, and flavors pulled from Jamaica to Japan are already making 15th Street worth the detour.

Lonie Murdock came from Toronto to give downtown DC a jerk recipe that's been in her family for generations

The dining room at Isla stops you. A 10-foot chandelier in blush pink hangs over the room. Tan booths curl around an open kitchen where wood fire does most of the talking. The walls are jewel-toned, the music is on, and the whole 8,000-square-foot space at Midtown Center reads less like a new restaurant and more like a place that has already decided exactly what it wants to be.

That confidence is Lonie Murdock's. Isla is the domain of executive chef Lonie Murdock, who celebrates the heritage and globe-trotting she shares with her partner Darren Hinds. The two are the minds behind Toronto's WeShall Hospitality and its beloved, celebrity-favorite Miss Likklemore's, The Good Son, and Maxime's. Murdock and Hinds were personally drawn to Washington DC for their latest concepts because of the city's internationalism, eclectic interests, and intellectually minded residents. This is their first US address.

Isla opened at Midtown Center on October 29, followed by sibling cocktail lounge Goodlove on November 7. Both sit at 1100 15th Street NW, a building that already houses Grazie Nonna and Shoto. It's a block that has quietly accumulated some of the more interesting rooms in downtown. Isla, at the scale Murdock and Hinds have built it, makes that block a genuine destination.

What's cooking

Murdock's menu reflects heritage and modernity, tradition and experimentation. Drawing on her own bicultural experience as the child of a Caribbean mother and Canadian father exposed to a world of cuisines, she has crafted dishes that spotlight ingredients common to the diaspora, enlivened by open-fire cooking and the playfulness of familiar flavors reimagined.

Isla's small plate-centric menu pulls island flavors from Japan, the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, and beyond. One of Murdock's favorite dishes is a snapper crudo with passionfruit ponzu, culantro oil (she calls it "the tropical sister of cilantro"), and fried wakame seaweed. The menu also runs a bone-in pork chop brightened by green mango, cumin, and crab butter, and a lamb tartare topped with pickled shrimp, Trinidadian green seasoning, and a Jamaican sweet potato crema.

Then there's the gnocchi. Roasted pumpkin gnocchi channels the Caribbean with a smoked jerk beef ragu and coconut ricotta cream. Murdock uses her grandmother's jerk recipe throughout the menu, including for a jus that's reduced into a glossy sauce for the charbroiled chicken.

That grandmother never ran a restaurant. She never imagined her formula ending up in a room like this. Murdock has said as much in her own words: "Here's this lady that would never have imagined that her recipe would be used in such a way, but I think it's so special to see that Black and Brown food can be presented on a global level and on the same stage as many others." That's the whole argument of Isla, made in one sentence.

The rum room

DC has a strong cocktail culture, but rum has been an afterthought in it for years. Isla is making a specific bet against that.

The sultry, jewel-toned dining room with its dramatic pink chandelier also has a "rum room," which aims to house the largest rum collection in the DC area. The restaurant's rum room is intended to grow over time into an extensive collection of obscure rums from around the world, handpicked on travels yet to come. The program launched with around 50 selections. Guests can enjoy cocktails at the lacquered bar or settle into the rum room for something from further afield.

The cocktail menu focuses heavily on rum, with drinks such as the "Overproof Papi," a clarified milk punch rum and Coke. Murdock says one of her favorites is a riff on an espresso martini made with peanut punch, an island staple she describes as peanutty Ovaltine. Neither drink is trying to be anything other than fun.

The space, and what's next door

Solid Design Creative handled the moody interiors, noted for high-gloss walnut and the massive chandelier in blush pink that commands the dining room. Isla features multiple richly appointed dining rooms and private options, including a semi-private perch with prime views of the whole restaurant and a more expansive private space with its own bar, private entry, and room for 80 guests.

Goodlove, the cocktail lounge opening November 7 just steps away, runs a different temperature entirely. Darren Hinds takes the reins at Goodlove, which, although just steps from Isla, is a destination all its own, imbued with intimacy, hints of glamour, and most important, a cerebral love for music, from rock to house music to R&B, with DJs spinning nightly. At 2,200 square feet, Goodlove is the right size to enjoy nightly happy hours and snack on small bites from the Isla kitchen, or ensconce oneself with friends for a late night filled with sipping and people-watching.

Isla takes reservations at (202) 733-4800 and through OpenTable. The address is 1100 15th Street NW, easily walkable from the McPherson Square and Farragut North Metro stops.

The pink chandelier, for the record, is real. Go see it.

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